Building the Linn Cove Viaduct

It’s probably the most recognized Blue Ridge Parkway icon–the beautiful S-curve bridge that curls around the eastern slope of Grandfather Mountain.  Designed to protect the fragile landscape of the mountainside designated as an International Biosphere Reserve, the Linn Cove Viaduct was built using a unique cantilever construction that allowed workers to build the bridge almost without touching the ground.  You can read my article about the remarkable construction process of this last completed section of the Parkway in the Spring 2010 issue of Precast Solutions magazine.  For more details on touring the Blue Ridge Parkway, check out my new book Moon Blue Ridge and Smoky Mountains (Avalon Travel, 2010).

Use Vacation Rental Web Sites With Caution

While there’s no doubt that renting a house while vacationing (if you plan to stay in one area) will generally save you a bundle over the cost of a hotel, buyer beware.  Among the most popular sites for finding vacation rentals are Vacation Rentals By Owner (VRBO) and HomeAway, and while I’ve used both sites myself very successfully at times, be aware that they can be misleading.

View from our cottage on the Naeroy Fjord...the saving grace of an otherwise disappointing stay

VRBO, for example, is designed to list homes rented out directly by the owners of the houses, not by rental agencies.  However, some owners get around this by listing their rentals themselves and then referring you back to the rental agency when you contact them.  It may not seem like a terrible thing on the surface, save for the fact that one reason people like myself use VRBO is to avoid the impersonal experience, pages of rental agreements, often ridiculous security deposits, and poor housekeeping services of agencies.  Last fall, I rented a beach house on the Outer Banks of North Carolina through VRBO and experienced this very situation–the owner referred me to his rental agency.  The result was an otherwise fine soundfront house with lovely views and a swimming pool spoiled by the poor cleaning services of the agency.  We spent the first day of our vacation scrubbing the place from top to bottom.

More recently we rented a cottage in Norway overlooking the Naeroy Fjord, an arm of the Sogne Fjord (the world’s longest), through HomeAway.  While the view was certainly priceless, the cottage turned out to be less than tidy and we found ourselves confronted with owners who turned out to be less than honest in their dealings.  When I came home and submitted a review of the property to HomeAway they declined to publish it.   I began to understand why all the reviews on HomeAway are so positive–they don’t publish negative reviews of their properties.  Understandably, they don’t wish to lose the business of the property owners who pay to have their rentals listed on the site.  But they also risk alienating vacationers who are not permitted to provide honest reviews…unless, of course, they’re good ones.

So before you send in that deposit on a vacation rental, exercise a little extra care…lest you spend your downtime scrubbing sinks and floors instead of enjoying your getaway.

Classic Norway

Geiranger Fjord

This may well be the most photographed scene in Norway.  You see it on the covers of all the guidebooks.  It’s the Geiranger Fjord, and while by no means the most beautiful of Norway’s fjords, it is among the easiest to photograph thanks to a model observation deck, courtesy of those amazing Norwegian engineers who seem to be able to build anything anywhere under any conditions.   My drive along the Geiranger Fjord was part of a near 24-hour grand tour of Norway’s west-central coast.  Think you can’t see Norway in a nutshell in 24 hours or less?  All you need are fearless driving skills, the ability to maneuver skillfully on paved goat paths, and lots and lots of caffeine.  Oh yeah, and you need to do it in summer, so you can take advantage of 20 hours of sunshine.  Stay tuned….

An American Revisits the Battle of the Bulge

Guest blogger Anne Gore Galegor, Political Military Planner, Joint Enabling Capabilities Command, U.S. Joint Forces Command, recounts her recent visit to the landscape of the Battle of the Bulge.

Driving into Bastogne, the homes and farms are placed in nothing less than a fairytale setting.  Most homes are “older” (1950s due to the bombing during World War II) concrete block homes with beautiful rock facades.  Arranged around the homes are large meticulously landscaped gardens with shrubbery and flowers and small grass lawns.   Any large stretches of open landscape are used as pasture for cattle and sheep.   Every so often a random white birch or fir tree breaks the rolling landscape, and in all its pastoral serenity, it is hard to believe this dreamy rural area was the place of one of the bloodiest battles of World War II.

American Memorial commemorating the Battle of the Bulge

Though nearly 70 years separate us from the Battle of the Bulge, the people of Bastogne continue to commemorate the sacrifice of the Allies to hold fast and save their town.  Upon arriving in the historic town center, our first exposure to anything reminiscent of war is the American tank perched in front of the visitor’s center, pointing its barrel toward the American monument.   We headed straight for the trail to the memorial, a large star-shaped structure commemorating the forty-seven American states that conscripted their sons (and daughters) to fight the tyranny of the Nazi regime.   The memorial from the people of Bastogne is a gift and long-lasting thank you to the people of the United States for saving their town from the grip of German forces.  The adjacent visitor’s center is filled with uniforms, weapons and supplies with a self-guided walking tour ending with a video, well worth the 8 Euro to gain admittance.

We drove back into the center of town for lunch.  The streets are lined with patisseries, boulangeries, and boutique shops.  A quaint small town that still loves America.  Where a Belgium flag flies, a U.S. flag is right beside it.  We had lunch at the Leo Restaurant, a perfect balance of casual elegance with a highly motivated staff and delicious food.   We all enjoyed white wine and Juliper Beer, steaks, hearty bread, and creme’ brulee’.  For the first time since high school, I was forced to speak French, and I performed adequately, getting exactly what I ordered, prepared perfectly.

American Cemetery in Luxemburg

Our last objective of the day was visiting the American Cemetery in Luxemburg.  Walking in the gates,  it was clear this is a graciously preserved memorial to the American sacrifices during World War II.  Standing at the top of the burial grounds, the design is striking: not one headstone hides another.  You can literally see every marker, represented by a cross or Star of David.  Of the over 5,000 soldiers and one nurse buried in this cemetery, most were victims of the Battle of Bastogne.  This is also where General George S. Patton is buried; his final wish was to be buried with his men from the Battle of Bastogne.  His grave stands at the top of the cemetery, symbolizing Patton leading  his army even in death.

Having trouble multi-tasking? See how the Russians do it.

No bikes on the sidewalks, but horses are okay.

So it might be a bit hard to see since I took this picture through the window of a moving bus, but you’ll have to trust me on this: this young woman is indeed riding a horse down the sidewalk in St. Petersburg, a designer purse on one shoulder, while drinking a bottled iced tea (or is it vodka in disguise?), smoking a cigarette, and talking on her cell phone.  Ah, you say, impossible, as she’d have to be doing it all with one hand since her right is holding the reins.  I promise.  I and a dozen other passengers saw it with our own eyes.

Shoes and Stockings St. Petersburg Style

While the vestiges of communism linger here (there’s no such thing as an elegant family home; ramshackle apartments are all the rage), fashion is a serious priority.  Jeans and sneakers are not a common sight on the streets of St. Petersburg.  Women prefer heels, mini-skirts, and chunky accessories.  This former Russian capital is a virtual poster child for Sex and the City sans New York.

If you’re into shoes, bring your camera and your zoom lens….

Yep, the Russians love it, too.

Crusty Babushkas and Leonardo Up-Close

The Hermitage and Winter Palace

If you’ve ever been to The Louvre in Paris and experienced the sad letdown of not being able to get within five  feet of Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, you will find The Hermitage in St. Petersburg, Russia, at once a little refreshing and a bit frightening.  This state museum located in the former Winter Palace of the tsars houses some of the world’s greatest works of art and gives you a rare opportunity to get within what I hate to point out is almost touching distance of them.  You can literally stand within a foot of Leonard da Vinci’s Madonna With Child, Raphael’s The Holy Family, and Rembrandt’s Portrait of an Old Man.

Why?

Hall of Mirrors

Well, Russia seems to carry enough vestiges of communism to make art accessible to the people even at the risk of its preservation, i.e. flash bulbs blasting away at centuries-old paintings and the foot traffic of millions stirring up dust and grime.  That being said, I still found it a bit titillating to come so close to the masters….

If you have the good (or perhaps bad, depending on how you look at it) fortune of jumping all the hurdles required to gain entry to Russia these days, you might want to schedule your St. Petersburg visit for winter.  In summer, cruise ships by the dozen call on this  former Russian capital, unleashing tourists by the tens of thousands on the city’s palaces, museums, and cathedrals.  Hang on tight to the little ones, and don’t let your hubby out of your sight for a second.  The crowds here are enormous.

That being said, The Hermitage is still worth a visit no matter the season.  Its ornate baroque design, its sheer immensity (its exterior facades measure over 600 feet), and the grandeur of its interiors (not to mention the art) make it a destination not to be skipped.  Just realize it would take you nearly a decade to fully explore the museum, which houses 365 rooms of exhibits and nearly three million works of art.

Leonardo da Vinci's Madonna With Child

If you have a day or less (as I did), the second floor of The Hermitage is a good place to focus, providing access to the Hall of Mirrors, a stunning reflection of Versailles; Pavilion Hall with its Moorish and Renaissance decor; and the works of Michelangelo, Rembrandt, and Renoir.  Beware the babushkas, however.  These tight-lipped ladies never hesitate to keep wayward visitors in line, and their looks alone will make you think twice before getting too close to that painting of Rubens….

1812 Gallery and portrait of Tsar Alexander I

The Book is Here!

Moon Blue Ridge & Smoky Mountains

My new book, the 1st edition of Moon Blue Ridge and Smoky Mountains (Avalon Travel, 2010), is hitting bookstores around the country this week.  But you can order an author signed copy directly from my web site, too.

The book is part of Avalon’s popular Moon Handbook series, which Money magazine has referred to as “America’s finest travel guidebook series.”   My book covers the best of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Blue Ridge Parkway, and surrounding areas. Get my personal recommendations on what to see, where to hike, what to eat, and where to sleep.

For the latest news on book signings and author events, please visit Moon Blue Ridge and Smoky Mountains’ Facebook page.

America’s Favorite Drive Turns 75

View from the highest point on the Parkway at 6,053 ft.

The Blue Ridge Parkway celebrates its 75th anniversary this year, so if you’re in need of a summer road trip, this might just be the one to take.  Check out my top picks for must-see attractions along the way in the latest issue of AAA World. And if you really want the lowdown on what to see on and off the Parkway, be sure to order a copy of my new book, Moon Blue Ridge and Smoky Mountains (Avalon Travel, 2010), which hits bookstores around the country within the next couple of weeks.  You can also order a signed copy from my web site.

Land of the Big Sky

My backyard view of Virginia's Switzerland

No, it’s not western Montana, but it’s as good as it gets east of the Mississippi….

The Best Hike to Camp Rapidan

Mill Prong Cascade

Before the official establishment of Shenandoah National Park in 1936, President Herbert Hoover found respite from the heat of Washington at Camp Rapidan, a shady retreat located at the confluence of Mill Prong and Laurel Prong with the Rapidan River, one of Virginia’s premier trout fishing streams.  Hoover and the First Lady spent their time here in the surprisingly informal Brown House overlooking the Rapidan.

President Hoover's retreat at The Brown House

The Presidential couple used the retreat from 1929 to 1932, and many residents of Madison County (which borders the park just below Camp Rapidan) believed that when the national park came to be, the road into Camp Rapidan would become a park entrance.  But this was never to be, and to this day, Madison County is the only community bordering the park without an auto entrance to Shenandoah.

My daughter rests at the Brown House after her first spring hike

The Brown House is one of only a handful of buildings left here at Camp Rapidan, and during the high season, park rangers often hold interpretive programs here.  You can even catch a bus to the camp on certain days during the summer, but I recommend hiking in instead.  The best (and least crowded) route to take is the Mill Prong Trail.  The trailhead parking is located just south of Big Meadows.

The trek from the parking area to Camp Rapidan is about four miles roundtrip with a fair amount of up and down hiking, a few stream crossings, and lovely glimpses of small waterfalls.  If you’re lucky, you might even see a black bear or two along the way.  Much of the hike parallels Mill Prong, and there are a couple of great swimming holes along the way.  Allow at least four hours if you plan to spend some time exploring the camp.

Black bear cub near Camp Rapidan